Q: What are your favorite holiday traditions and how will you be celebrating this year?
A: Leave it to Italians, they’ll always figure out a way to eat well. I remember celebrating La Vigilia (The Vigil) which Southern Italians celebrate with an all-seafood feast on Christmas Eve. The Catholic tradition wouldn’t allow you to eat meat until you received communion, usually at mass the next day. Most couldn’t wait, so they turned the night before into a celebration, all fish. My family always did that and looked forward to it. I remember my mom would cook calamari, a seafood you have to cook either quick, or for a long time. My mom would slowly braise the calamari with the ink sacks until it was a deep maroon color. The calamari with tomato was just so good by itself, but she would put an extra twist on it; she would dress the spaghetti with aglio olio — oil and garlic and anchovies — then combine with the sauce. Oh my, that was good.
This year for Christmas Eve, my friends and family are going to prepare octopus in that same style with linguini. It’s just so unctuous. We go down to Mutual Fish where they always have the best selection. They have fresh boned and butterflied smelt in season. We prepare them sort of ceviche style by ‘cooking’ them in lemon juice before marinating them in garlic, olive oil and crushed red chilies and thyme. We also will have chunks of King crab dressed lightly with olive oil and lemon. Sometimes we’ll do swordfish rolls, cutting the swordfish really thin and stuffing it with a little mixture of bread crumbs,capers, garlic, parsley, anchovies and black olives then braising in tomato sauce.Growing up, it was always about respecting both the Italian and American traditions during the holidays, so we’d have antipasti, pasta — and then turkey or ham with all the trimmings. It was like two meals in one! We take it a little lighter now.
Appetizers
Crostini: (2) Avocado & Shallot mixture, topped with King Crab & Caviar
Goat Cheese & Lox with Caviar, both topped with Chives
Champagne
Antipasti
Roasted Red & Yellow Peppers with Olive Oil, Garlic, Oregano and a splash of Balsamic Vinegar
Insalata di Mare with Calimare, Alaska King Crab and Shrimp, shaved Celery, Mint, lots of Lemon & Olive Oil
Platter of San Danielle Proscuitto
Bread
Lots of Red wine
Primi Piati
Spaghetti alla Botarga (Dried Tuna Roe with Oil Garlic and Parsley)
Main Course
Giant Scampi cut in half, sauteed in Olive Oil, White Wine, Butter, finely chopped Garlic & Parsley
Escarole sautéed in Olive Oil Garlic and Crushed Red Chilies
Desert
Mille Feuilles Pastries (Vanilla & Choc.) from Le Fournil Bakery
Frans Chocolate Ganauche Figs
Margherita’s Pizzelli & Lucia’s Lemon and Peach Crostata
Platter of Red Grapes, Bosc & Bartlett pear slices, Gorgonzola Cheese
Marinated Black Figs (in White Wine, Honey & Thyme)
Espresso
Moscato
This will be the first year Frank will celebrate the holidays without his mother, Angetina Isernio, who passed away in February at the age of 102. She grew beautiful flower and herb gardens at her home on Beacon Hill and insisted that every guest and visitor leave her home with gifts of vegetables, flower bouquets or something she made herself, such as pizzelle and biscotti cookies. Angie was an excellent cook and took much pride & pleasure in cooking delicious meals for her family and friends. Her cooking and family dinners will long be remembered.
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